My LED color smart floodlight stopped working and I’m pretty sure the power adapter is dead.
The old one says 26V 1.5A Class 2 on it.
I’m trying to find a replacement online but I’m not 100% sure what needs to match besides voltage and amps. It’s one of those color-changing smart floodlights (WiFi controlled).
Do I need the exact same 1.5A rating?
And does the connector type matter a lot?
Just don’t want to fry the light by buying the wrong adapter.
Appreciate any help!
Hi,
Let’s simplify this so it’s easier to decide.
Since your original adapter is 26V 1.5A, here’s how to check safely:
Step 1 – Voltage,This must match exactly: 26V DC.Anything higher (like 28V or 30V) can permanently damage the floodlight.
Step 2 – Current,Your original supply is 1.5A.That means your floodlight likely draws up to:
26V × 1.5A ≈ 39W
You can safely use:26V 1.5A (exact match)/26V 2A (slightly higher is fine)
You should NOT use:26V 1A (too low — may flicker or overheat)/The light will only draw the current it needs.
Step 3 – Smart Function Check,This is important for smart floodlights.Look at your original adapter:
If it has:
A reset button
A small indicator LED
WiFi pairing instructions on the label
Then the smart control board may be inside the adapter.
If it’s just a plain brick with no buttons or indicators, then the control is inside the light — and a standard 26V adapter will work fine.
Step 4 – Connector,Make sure:Plug size matches exactly.Waterproof connector type matches (if outdoor rated)
If your original adapter is a simple 26V 1.5A power brick with no control module inside, then a 26V adapter rated at 1.5A or higher with the same connector will work safely.
If you’re unsure, a photo of the original adapter label and plug will make confirmation easy.
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I replaced mine last year but I messed up the connector size. Voltage was right but plug didn’t fit.
Definitely double-check that part.
Is Class 2 important or can I ignore that?
Class 2 certification indicates the power supply is designed with limited voltage and current output for safety.For LED floodlights and outdoor lighting, it is recommended to use a Class 2 power supply to ensure compliance and reduce risk of electrical hazard.
As long as it’s 26V, you’re fine. The amp rating doesn’t really matter that much.
That’s not totally accurate.
If the adapter can’t supply enough current, it’ll overheat.
26V 1.5A means the light probably draws around 39W.
You shouldn’t go lower than 1.5A.
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Right, but going higher won’t hurt anything. The light only pulls what it needs.
Depends.If it’s a cheap smart floodlight, sometimes the adapter is tuned for the internal board. Not every generic supply behaves the same under load.
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Also — is anyone sure the control board isn’t inside the adapter?I had a “smart” light that stopped pairing when I replaced the power supply. Turns out the RF receiver was inside the adapter housing.
Wait seriously? I thought all the smart stuff was inside the light head.
Not always. Some low-cost outdoor kits integrate control in the power brick.If your adapter has:A reset button，Indicator LED，Pairing instructions on the label，hen it’s not just a dumb power supply.